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To talk of Italian food as a single cuisine, or even merely separate by the drastic differences between North and South, is to overlook the constant variations of the cities and states that today make up the country’s 20 regions. There’s a dizzying list of regional specialties: Abruzzo’s maccheroni alla chitarra (guitar pasta), the pizzas and spaghetti pomodoros of Naples, the Jewish-influenced artichokes of Rome, Sicily’s crepe-like manicotti… the list goes on and on. One thing that all Italian cuisines have in common, however, is that they are seasonal and local, which fits in perfectly with an Australian food scene that is increasingly focused on those traits as well.

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